I don't think over-spraying nitro on poly is a problem. Just want to get it as close as I can, thanks ahead for any help anyone can offer. Except for the UV dentist tool and that's not going to happen for me. There's not a lot of discussion about matching poly finishes including, and maybe for good reason. And, the kid that owns it probably wouldn't buy another guitar. I know this seems like a lot of work for this guitar, but I'd hate to try it on a more expensive guitar for the first time. Then take a mohagany dowel and and mirror the taper, cut a groove for the truss rod to move, leave it proud and again.scrape, sand and buff ? What kind of finish can I put over the bare wood that would work well with the poly? Anyone? Leaving a slight inward taper on the cut. Unless someone says something differant, my thoughts are cut a rectangular hole using a knife (what kind & where?) dremel or saw. Yeah, it's a huge hole and I'm really not sure about this one. Now here's a photo of the back of the neck. Thoughts from anyone? Finish to put over the top of the painted grain? I know, but I have to try it for the experience. Then I thought I would paint in the darker grain where it would be missing. I thought I'd try epoxy this time with Behlen burnt umber tinted to get the color close then scrape, sand, and buff. Here's the front of the headstock with missing chunks of finish and wood. Not that it really matters on this guitar, but that I'd get some more experience. By the way, I have filled poly finishes in the past with tinted super glue, but as you might know it leaves that "drop of oil in a bucket of water" opaque look. I haven't done the "is it lacquer or is poly test?" but since it's a newer guitar from Asia I'm assuming it's poly. I got the glue up done alright, but infortunetly the owner didn't save the missing pieces. Just got my first broken headstock on a Epiphone acoustic. I've gone to Frank once in the past for info, but now he refers those with repair questions to this site. I refer to Frank Ford's for info frequently. It's a break from playing really, and gets my second love of tinkering satisfied. I'm inclined to think I should get it and hope for the best, if the cracks get worse then I'll deal with the repairs, and probably still come out of it with a fair deal for a guitar I want.I've been a fledgling luthier for awhile now, and only do it a few hours a day and mostly on inexpensive instruments. I guess what I'm taking a long time to ask is: Are tiny cracks potentially in the wood emanating from the corner of the nut really worth passing this guitar over? The price seems like it won't be matched and I have wanted one of these for a while now. The cracks in question seem so small that I have a hard time figuring out how they would be repaired if that was something I even wanted to do. The moral of this story - I'm not particularly scared of a little crack in the neck, my Cort is doing just fine. I only bought it because the identical model guitar was stolen from me some years before - the store selling the guitar must have taken some sympathy on me and sold me the guitar for a great deal. I currently own a Cort guitar (70's/80's? neck-through, 2hb's) with a much more damaged neck that was repaired before I bought it. There are pictures available for the world to see.Īpparently the guitar was taken to 2 different techs, 1 said it was superficial and just the finish that was cracked, the other said the the wood was indeed cracked (mahogany neck with rosewood fretboard, Gibson style tilt-back headstock btw). The seller is honest and upfront about the fact that there are cracks on each side of the nut (on the bass side it's tiny, longer on the treble side - maybe halfway way down the first fret?, both come directly from the corner of the nut). I'm watching a guitar on ebay, it's got a couple days left and it's currently about $125 when it's around a $500 guitar new (not including the upgraded Seymour Duncan pickup in the bridge position, adds around 50 bucks or so to the value).
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